Marked the day of my much-anticipated flight to Cusco, Peru. With the morning light creeping in, I prepared for the day, packed my belongings, and checked out of my hotel in Miraflores. Not far from my hotel, the Visitor's Center was my go-to spot for the Airport Express Lima bus. A valuable nugget of information I had picked up from the Peru Hop website. You can either pre-book a seat online or simply show up at the scheduled time. The choice is yours.
While waiting for my bus, I remembered some advice I had come across during my research. It's common for travelers to experience altitude sickness when heading to high-altitude regions like Cusco. Not wanting to take any chances, I dashed to the nearest pharmacy to pick up some altitude sickness medication. The one I got was called "Altivital". Despite a minor language barrier, my rudimentary Spanish and the locals' smattering of English made the transaction go smoothly.
After securing my medicine, I returned to the stop just as the airport shuttle pulled in. Boarding the bus, I paid the $6 tourist fee and settled in for the ride. As we drove, I watched as Lima began to stir, the morning traffic steadily increasing. We reached the airport around 10 am. With my flight scheduled for 1:33 pm, I was already feeling the crunch of time.
I hurried to the Viva Air desk, but to my surprise, I was hit with an extra fee for not confirming my flight booking online. Yes, I remember receiving their confirmation email but had no idea it would cost me not to respond. This practice was new to me and exclusive, it seemed, to Viva Air. However, I took it in stride, learning yet another valuable lesson for future travels. I pulled out my credit card to cover the fee (since airlines don't accept cash) and made a beeline for my gate.
The scene at the gate was buzzing. A queue was already forming, and the desk officers were starting to call for boarding. It was almost time to take off on my next Peruvian adventure – Cusco!
The flight from Lima to Cusco is a relatively short one, clocking in at around an hour. As we prepared to land, I couldn't help but be awestruck by the view from my window. A lush expanse of forests and mountains spread beneath us, and as we drew nearer, the earthly hues of Cusco's civilization began to take shape. By the time our plane touched down at Cusco Airport, it was around 3 pm.
Navigating through the airport was a breeze, and before long, I was outside, ready to meet my taxi driver, whom I had arranged through my hotel in Cusco. He was parked a little distance away from the airport's arrival gate, and without wasting any time, he drove me towards my hotel located in the heart of Cusco's historic center.
The ride to my hotel turned out to be a delightful sightseeing tour in itself. The views outside my window were captivating, to say the least. We navigated through winding roads and passed over cobblestones that had been laid centuries ago. Buildings constructed from stone and dating back to bygone eras lined our path. The sight of adorable llamas, local people in their colorful traditional attire, all waiting to catch the attention of tourists, added to the charm of the city. The air was crisp and cool, and my anticipation only grew with every passing minute. I couldn't wait to explore the enchanting city of Cusco upon reaching my hotel.
Upon reaching my destination, the Yabar Hotel Plaza, I was immediately struck by its close proximity to the magnificent Cusco Cathedral. A cobblestone alleyway, brimming with character and whispering tales of the medieval past, guided me to the hotel's entrance - a robust wooden door. Upon ringing the bell, I was warmly received in the lobby.
The staff were courteous and considerate, promptly offering me a cup of coca leaf tea to help combat the symptoms of altitude sickness that had begun to creep up on me. Despite their kindness, I declined, choosing instead to rely on the medication I had already procured. Hungry and eager to explore the local cuisine, I asked for restaurant recommendations and quickly headed towards a nearby eatery.
Navigating through the town was no less than a minor hike, with the sloping cobblestone streets adding a rustic charm to the challenging walk. Amidst this, the sight of adorable llamas, presented by locals to the delight of tourists, added a unique flavor to my journey.
Eventually, I found myself in a square surrounded by buildings of bygone era. Ascending to a second-floor eatery, I placed my order, sat back, and enjoyed a refreshing mojito while waiting for my meal. The park view from my vantage point, coupled with the sight of old, captivating buildings, made the wait even more worthwhile.
With my thoughts drifting towards the upcoming trek on Christmas Eve, I reminisced about my initial plan of a 5-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. However, political unrest had prompted my tour operator to suggest a 4-day Inca Jungle Trek as an alternative, which was a welcome relief as it meant not having to postpone the trip altogether. Surprisingly, despite the holiday season, the tour operations remained unaffected.
Later that night, my guide visited my hotel to brief me on what to expect from the trek. This discussion served to mentally prep me for the ensuing adventure. Due to the popularity of the hike, the hotel offered to securely store any additional luggage of its guests, a service I gladly availed. With that sorted, I was free to look forward to the thrilling journey that awaited me in the days ahead.
Day 4. The day I'd been eagerly awaiting had finally dawned - the start of my adventurous hike. It was a brisk 5 am when my guide arrived at the hotel to fetch me. Equipped with my 5-liter hiking bag, we met our driver at the main square of Cusco, all set to embark on our journey.
As we started to distance ourselves from the chill of Cusco, the rising sun began to paint a beautiful morning scene. On the way, we picked up bicycles that we were going to use for part of our exploration.
Our initial stop was the quaint town of Ollantaytambo, known for its Inca ruins and terraces. This was where we planned to have our breakfast. To my surprise, I realized that I was the only one who had signed up for this tour. The unexpected twist turned my group tour into an exclusive private tour, adding an extra layer of excitement to my adventure.
The drive to our first stop was simply breathtaking. We arrived at our breakfast destination around 8:00 am, where I took the opportunity to stock up on essentials for the hike such as mosquito repellent and a sun hat. With these items ticked off my list, we didn't linger too long before resuming our journey.
OLLANTAYTAMBO
We wound our way through the town of Ollantaytambo, a vision straight out of history with its old houses, Inca ruins, and rugged landscape. The further we traveled, the more the ride felt like a roller coaster with the numerous ups, downs, and turns. For a large portion of the journey, we were driving alongside mountains, offering views that were nothing short of spectacular.
Flocks of llamas, alpacas, and other herds graced the mountainsides, adding life to the already stunning landscapes. It was a sight that refreshed the soul.
On our way to Santa Maria, we took a break from the drive for a biking excursion. This activity was a way to compensate for the changes in my original tour plan. The two hours we spent biking were invigorating and brought out the child in me. After the biking session, we returned to our vehicle to continue our journey to Santa Maria, where I would be spending the night. This experience was not only fun, but it also offered an intimate way to enjoy the beauty of the Peruvian landscape.
STA MARIA
We reached the quaint town of Santa Maria around 1:00 pm. My guide and I made our way to the nearest eatery for a much-deserved lunch. As we enjoyed our meal, we had an in-depth discussion about the plan for the following day. I sampled some of the local cuisine, finding it to be full of rich, unique flavors that were new to my palate.
The night in Santa Maria, arranged by the tour operators, was included in my tour package. This is something travelers should always check when booking tours - it's essential to review exactly what the package includes. In my case, all meals and accommodations were part of the deal, making the journey more convenient and worry-free. It allowed me to focus more on the excitement of the adventure, rather than logistical details.
The town, with its unique blend of local and historical charm, provided the perfect setting for a good night's sleep before the next leg of my journey It was Christmas eve but i have to save my energy for tomorrows adventure so I just whisked the night away.
Our hike began, leading us along rugged roads nestled on the mountainside and into the lush expanse of the rainforest. After just an hour of walking, we stumbled upon a beautiful waterfall cascading down a sheer rock face, its rhythmic crash providing a melodious background to our journey. Within the heart of the forest, I was astounded to see a cornucopia of fruit trees, ripe oranges, and avocados littering the ground like scattered jewels. We couldn't resist plucking a few to snack on along the trail, their sweetness an unexpected treat.
We took intermittent breaks in what seemed like temporarily abandoned buildings, my guide informed me that these were the dwellings of coffee farmers who were currently away. Continuing on, our trail took us up steep hillsides, granting us spectacular views of the sprawling Urubamba River.
By this time, it started to rain, adding a dash of thrill to our adventure. Wrapped in my poncho, we continued our uphill trek, passing through farms and local dwellings until we reached a farmer's house nestled on the mountainside where we stopped for lunch. The rain intensified during this time, transforming our hike into a beautiful sojourn amidst a tropical downpour.
Our journey resumed post-lunch, leading us across mountains, with the river as our guide. My guide shared fascinating stories about Peru's history, including how conquerors had mistaken the golden-colored mangoes, abundant in the area, for gold. We navigated our way, crossing a steel bridge and then a manually operated cable ride to get to the other side of the river.
Around 4:00 pm, we reached our destination, Cocalmayo. And to our delight, it was a hot spring! After the long, exciting hike, nothing could have been more perfect than soaking our tired bodies in the warm, crystal-clear waters of the hot spring, all the while admiring the panoramic views of nature around us. This, indeed, was a moment etched in time, a truly unforgettable experience.
As twilight fell, we took a tricycle ride to our hotel in Santa Teresa, just a few miles away. Looking back, the hike was a feast for the senses, immersing me in the rich diversity of the Peruvian landscape. It was a day well spent and an experience I would carry with me forever.
Sta Teresa
Day 5 began with a leisurely morning in Santa Teresa, with time dedicated to drying our damp clothes on the hotel's rooftop. The vista from there was simply stunning; Santa Teresa was a picturesque town cradled amidst towering mountains. Once we had prepared ourselves for the day's adventure, we departed from the town around 12:00 pm by van.
Our first stop was at the Wayna Picchu restaurant where we refueled with a hearty buffet lunch. It was vital to energize ourselves as a 3 to 4-hour trek lay ahead of us. We began our trek around 2:00 pm, each of us equipped with a hiking bag and a trekking pole.
The trail we embarked on was unpaved, snaking along riverbanks under the verdant canopy of the rainforest. We traversed steel bridges and followed the train tracks, all leading us towards our final destination: Aguas Calientes. We took occasional breaks along the way, enjoying the serenity of the wilderness, and the company of numerous other trekkers who, like us, were eager to reach Aguas Calientes before twilight.
The sight of a sign reading "Machu Picchu, Ciudad del Mundo" lifted our spirits. It was a beacon indicating that our destination was within reach. A few more miles and the enchanting town of Aguas Calientes appeared, built alongside a network of rivers like a secret haven tucked away in the forest.
At long last, after a day filled with exertion, excitement, and anticipation, we had arrived at our destination: the mesmerizing town of Aguas Calientes, the gateway to the seven wonder of the world, Machu Picchu.
Aguas Calientes
Aguas Calientes, also known as Machu Picchu Pueblo, is often considered the gateway to the ancient Inca site of Machu Picchu. Nestled within a deep gorge below the ruins, the town is a charming mix of modern conveniences and rich history.
As you'd expect from a place named "hot waters" in Spanish, Aguas Calientes is famous for its thermal baths. These hot springs are a popular spot for travelers to relax and rejuvenate their sore muscles after a long day of hiking. The natural hot springs, surrounded by lush foliage, offer a sublime experience amidst a breathtaking landscape.
The town itself is quite small, laid out in a grid-like pattern with the Urubamba River cutting through its heart. Quaint local restaurants and cafes line the narrow, pedestrian-only streets. There's a vibrant marketplace with colorful stalls selling traditional Peruvian crafts and alpaca wool clothing. It's an excellent place to browse for souvenirs or try the local cuisine.
Despite its small size, Aguas Calientes has a surprising variety of accommodations ranging from backpacker hostels to luxury hotels. Many of these places provide breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and easy access to the bus terminal, where buses depart regularly for Machu Picchu.
Although most people visit Aguas Calientes as a stopover on their way to or from Machu Picchu, the town has its own charms worth exploring. There's a lovely botanical garden filled with native plants and orchids, and a butterfly farm where you can see a myriad of tropical butterflies. There are also several hiking opportunities, like the climb to Putucusi Mountain, which offers panoramic views over the town and surrounding area.
However, the town's most significant charm is its location. Set in a deep valley surrounded by steep, green mountains, Aguas Calientes is enveloped by the ethereal beauty of the cloud forest. This natural beauty combined with its unique culture makes Aguas Calientes a memorable place to visit.
Having descended from the rugged trails and nestled myself in the comforting ambiance of Winay Wayna, my home for the night in Aguas Calientes, I found solace in the quaint setup of this retreat. Carefully selected by my tour operator, this was a sanctuary where I could replenish my energy for the forthcoming adventure.
Leaving no stone unturned to ensure an immersive Peruvian experience, my guide led me to a local restaurant. The scintillating aroma of Peruvian cuisine wafted through the air as we were served a delicious three-course meal - a much-needed feast after a demanding day of exploration and trekking.
With the echoes of our laughter and conversation still lingering in the rustic corners of the restaurant, we headed back to the hotel, our minds brimming with anticipation for tomorrow's quest. The thrill was palpable but overshadowed by a stark reminder of our strenuous day. My legs bore the toll of the day's venture, swollen and pleading for rest.
In light of the physical exhaustion, we decided to pivot our plan for the following day. Instead of yet another uphill trek, we opted to take a bus ride to the citadel, a decision that cost us around $30 for a roundtrip but promised to conserve our energy for the exploration of the iconic Macchu Picchu.
As the twilight set in, we walked around the charming town of Aguas Calientes. In a cozy corner of the town, we went to a store bestowing a unique souvenir upon travelers - a special Machu Picchu stamp on their passports. With my guide's assistance, I got my passport graced with this delightful token of my journey.
Despite the night being young and the town still teeming with life, the exhaustion of the day held me captive. I yearned for the soothing embrace of my hotel bed. As I drifted into a deep, restful slumber, my dreams were painted with visions of the magnificent Machu Picchu, waiting to reveal its wonders to me in the morning light.
Macchu Picchu
The morning arrived, bringing with it the long-awaited day of unveiling the mysteries of one of the world's wonders. My pulse quickened with each step towards the bus stop, where we would catch the first ascent to the famed citadel. We clambered aboard, luck favoring me with a front seat view - an unobstructed panorama through the vast windshield, making the world outside my personal canvas.
The journey began, taking us on a snaking road that wound its way up the mountain. With every twist and turn of the 30-minute ride, my heart mirrored the path - brimming with anticipation and excitement. As the imposing gateway of the citadel appeared, a gush of exhilaration washed over me.
We made a brief pitstop at the restroom before striding confidently towards the entrance, tickets in hand, ready to cross the threshold into a bygone world. And there it was - Macchu Picchu in all its grandeur. It felt surreal, standing at the gateway of this ancient wonder.
The path that welcomed us was narrow, flanked by cobblestones, a pathway that countless explorers must have traversed before. Native alpacas roamed freely, their calm demeanor in stark contrast to my rising excitement. The landscape was awash in the vibrant green of lush vegetation, nature's own carpet spread out in honor of this historical monument. Under the clear sky, the day promised perfect exploring conditions.
Our unhurried stroll led us to a familiar sight - the iconic terrace of Macchu Picchu. This vantage point, from where countless photographs have immortalized the citadel, stood before me now. I was not merely an observer of a picture but a part of the living, breathing testament of history. I was finally standing amidst the splendor I had seen so many times in photographs, now looking at it with my own eyes, breathing in its air, and embracing its tale.
Machu Picchu
Machu Picchu, the ancient citadel perched high in the Andean mountains of Peru, is a site that leaves one in absolute awe. A marvel of ancient Incan civilization, it's a testament to the architectural ingenuity and astronomical expertise of a culture that thrived centuries ago.
As you approach, you’re greeted by terraced slopes that appear as if carved meticulously into the mountainside, akin to green steps leading towards the heavens. These agricultural terraces were likely used to grow food for the city's inhabitants, and they remain a fascinating demonstration of the Incas' ingenious farming techniques.
Beyond the terraces, the heart of Machu Picchu reveals itself. A labyrinth of polished stone structures, narrow paths, and grand plazas sprawl across the ridgeline. The buildings showcase the Inca's mastery of stonework, with many walls built from stones cut so precisely that they fit together without mortar. There's a harmonious blend of the man-made and natural world here, as the structures seamlessly meld with the surrounding mountains and valleys.
In the central part of the city, you find key structures such as the Temple of the Sun and the Intihuatana stone, believed to function as a sundial or astronomical observatory. These structures exhibit the Inca's deep connection with the cosmos and their skill in aligning their architecture with celestial events.
At every turn, Machu Picchu offers sweeping vistas of the surrounding Andean peaks, draped in emerald green forests. The Urubamba River snakes its way around the base of the mountain, its ceaseless flow a stark contrast to the timeless serenity of Machu Picchu. Clouds often hang low, giving the city a surreal, otherworldly appearance as if it’s floating between the realms of the earth and the heavens.
To visit Machu Picchu is to step back in time, to walk among the ghosts of the Incas, and to marvel at a civilization that, while long gone, continues to inspire and fascinate with its mysteries and wonders. It is not just a collection of old buildings but a powerful symbol of the human spirit's resilience and ingenuity, a monument to a civilization that carved a life in these rugged mountains and touched the sky.
Breathing in the centuries-old air of Machu Picchu, our exploration unfolded seamlessly. As the sun began its ascent, my guide and I started our journey through this ancient city, only a handful of other early risers around us. As hours passed, the flow of tourists began to surge, but we had the benefit of the serene early morning to ourselves.
As an architect, my senses were overwhelmed by the formidable intricacy of ancient craftsmanship. I stood in awe of the Inca's extraordinary masonry skills, marveling at walls standing robustly after withstanding the tests of time. I noted the repaired sections of these walls, modern attempts to restore their past glory. Yet, these additions, while necessary for preservation, could not match the exquisite originality of the Inca's handiwork.
The citadel of Machu Picchu, untouched by modernity, immaculately clean and meticulously preserved, seemed almost suspended in time. Every stone, every stairway, every structure stood as a silent testimony to the civilization that once thrived here. A civilization that, without the use of modern tools or technology, had the audacity to etch a city into the face of a mountain.
What intrigued me further was the astronomical wisdom the Incas possessed, much like the Mayans I had learned about during my visit to Chichen Itza. The Incas had carefully incorporated structures to observe celestial elements into their city, perhaps to guide their agricultural practices or to understand the cosmos better. Despite the hundreds of years that separated us, I felt a profound connection to the Inca people as I walked in their footsteps, appreciating the sophisticated civilization they had built. They had forged a legacy in stone that continues to inspire, standing as a testament to human ingenuity and the timeless pursuit of knowledge.
As our exploration of the ancient city drew to a close, a satisfying sigh escaped my lips. 4 days of arduous trekking, humbling experiences, and extraordinary discoveries culminated in the crown jewel that is Machu Picchu - another wonder of the world graciously ticked off my bucket list. As the bus weaved its way back down to Aguas Calientes, my heart swelled with a profound sense of achievement.
But the day was still young, and the charming town of Aguas Calientes beckoned. I had a train to catch at 2 pm, providing me just enough time to discover the hidden gems this town had to offer and collect some keepsakes for my journey back home.
Boarding the train, I was greeted by panoramic windows showcasing the kaleidoscopic landscape that had become a familiar friend over the last few days. This time, however, I was alone - a solitary traveler reflecting on the wonders I had witnessed. The tour operator had arranged for my pickup from the Ollantaytambo train station, a final gesture to ease my journey back to Cusco.
As the sun began its descent and the day's adventure concluded, I found myself back in Cusco, ensconced comfortably in my abode. I reached out to my loved ones, sharing with them the sights and emotions that had filled my day. As their voices filled my room, I realized that the best part of any journey is the stories we bring back. With that, I nestled into bed, memories of Machu Picchu gently lulling me into a well-deserved rest.
תגובות