Upon arriving at Cap-Haitien Airport around 12 PM, I paid the required $10 tourist fee at the immigration desk before exiting the arrival lobby. I took an airport taxi to my first destination, a resort. Numerous taxi drivers eagerly awaited outside the airport departure lobby, offering their services persistently. It's advisable to negotiate a fare with them before accepting a ride. I sought assistance from the tourism desk officer on where to exchange my money, and she kindly escorted me to an elderly woman who exchanged dollars for Haitian gourdes (Haiti's currency). Having gourdes in your pocket is convenient for paying bills less than a dollar, but knowing the current exchange rate is essential for your own protection.
Cormier Plage Resort is a beach resort-hotel situated at the foot of a mountain. I stopped here for lunch and enjoyed the beach before proceeding to my hotel. The resort-hotel boasts various facilities that visitors can enjoy during their stay, including a souvenir shop, tennis court, volleyball court, aviary, restaurant, bar, turtle pond, and more. They also offer water recreation activities like snorkeling. Upon arrival, head to the bar to pay the $5 fee if you only wish to use the beach. The friendly staff offer delectable food, and the open-air, rustic restaurant provides stunning beach views while you dine or enjoy drinks from the bar.
The beach stretches along the resort's property, with palm trees adding to the scenic view. Both ends of the beach are bordered by large rock formations. While swimming, I noticed that the ocean floor became rocky as I ventured deeper, with the water reaching my waist. I hope this isn't the case for other parts of the beach, as I only explored a few spots. I also noticed campers during my stay.
After leaving the resort, I was unsure how to reach the town but fortunately encountered a few moto-taxis along the way.
I stayed at Habitation de Laurier during my time in Cap-Haitien. The most memorable aspect of this hotel was the challenging climb to reach it, as it sits atop a mountain. Despite the strenuous hike, the reward is a breathtaking view overlooking Cap-Haitien. From this vantage point, you can strategize how to explore the town. Visible from the hotel is the Cathedral Notre-Dame de Cap-Haitien, an example of Colonial architecture rich in history.
Cap-Haitien's streets are laid out on a grid pattern, making navigation simple. I highly recommend downloading the Haiti Map Offline, as it was quite helpful during my stay. Markets, convenience stores, and local shops abound, so finding items needed for your trip is not difficult. Just be sure to bring some knowledge of the Creole language or a translator app for communication purposes.
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As I wandered around town, I eventually reached this historical landmark. This Catholic church has stood since the time of the French, Haiti's colonizers. A park lies in front of the cathedral, offering a place to rest, sit under a tree, and enjoy local street food sold nearby.
In the late afternoon, I arrived at Boulevard Carenage in search of a place to eat. The area is home to numerous restaurants and bars, making it a pleasant place to stroll along while enjoying the sea breeze. The cost of a meal ranged from 500 to 700 gourds, and portions were generous enough for two people. I requested the waitstaff to pack up leftovers, which I took home to enjoy later.
The hotel manager kindly offered to drop me off at the tap-tap station en route to the airport. Tap-taps are public transportation vehicles resembling modified pick-up trucks with passenger seating in the rear. The station is situated near a gasoline station and rotunda, just before the bridge leading to the airport. The tap-tap departs once full, and the fare is 50 gourds. The journey from the tap-tap station to Milot took approximately 20-30 minutes.
Upon arriving at the tap-tap station in Milot, I was greeted by numerous moto taxi drivers offering to transport me to the tourism office before starting my hike to Citadelle Laferrière. I decided to take one of the moto taxis.
At the tourism office, I inquired about the cost of the climb. The entry fee was $5, but the total cost was around $45 if I opted for a horse and a guide, which I chose to save time and fully immerse myself in exploring the Citadelle. This experience became the highlight of my trip.
Citadelle Laferrière is a massive mountaintop fortress, which I recall learning about in architecture books during my studies. My fascination with the structure led me to ponder the logistics of its construction during that time, and how materials were transported to the mountaintop. Thankfully, my guide was on hand to provide explanations.
After exploring Citadelle Laferrière, my guide and I visited Sans Souci Palace, another historical site with a shared history. Once the residence of the king who built the Citadelle, the palace now lies in ruins, serving as a community park. Nearby, the Cathedral de Milot showcases elements of Islamic architecture.
After spending 2-3 hours exploring these sites, my guide and the moto taxi driver took me back to the tap-tap station, the same one where I had arrived earlier. Both Citadelle Laferrière and Sans Souci Palace are UNESCO heritage sites and well worth a visit.
Tips: Consider arranging a guide and transportation to the tourism office through your hotel to minimize the hassle of negotiating with locals. Keep in mind that as a tourist, locals and guides may expect tips.
San Souci Palace
On departure day, the hotel provided a ride to the airport as part of their service. For those looking for souvenirs, a kiosk is available in the departure lobby.
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